Jack Shaft Gears

Wednesday 15 May 2013

Bagikan :

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Many of the gear used in this engine needs to be re-bored to a larger shaft size. There are drawings in the plans for holding accessories to make this, but I found it easier to simply use standard tweezers. This should also do a better job of maintaining concentricity between the bore and the OD gear
First gear is placed in the clamp.
Then, a flat piece of metal or another parallel is used to push the gear flush with the face of the nozzle and hopefully, the bore parallel to the spindle axis.
If I have no drill pipe small enough, or the difference in size between the old and the new hole was not very big, just a step through strawberries in 1/32 "up to the final size.
For large changes in diameter, was bored response and carbide burs bars make great little boring!

With both gears boring, it was a simple matter to put pressure on the union axis. I tried to press both gears aligned with a tooth root to help with cam timing back.After pressing the forward gears, factory is to drill
With the shaft in the center and slightly loosened the clamp, connecting shaft and gears are rotated until the spindle is centered between two teeth in the tooth root. Tightening the clamp and the table is shifted so that the spindle is in the center of the face gear.
A "hole 1/16 will reach the two side flanks before the root tip so walking all over the place. To avoid this, I used a 2 mm carbide bur to clean the sides to root
Then I used a 1 mm carbide end mill to create a starter hole and could not get a center drill there.
Finally, I drilled with a drill bit 1/16 "through hole.
The drill is turned on the plate displacement makes a good home press the roll pin. Try to center the pin in place to maintain balance.
Flip the binding axis around the mouthpiece and repeat the process of aligning the brass gear.

Repeat washing hole and opegear.
A connecting shaft ready to be installed in the cam assembly.

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